Step by Step Knit Garments Merchandising: A Beginner’s Guide
Functions of Knit Garments Merchandisers:
Execution of Sample Orders: Upon receiving the specifications for a sample order, it is crucial for the merchandiser to thoroughly understand the buyer's requirements. Amendments to the sample order sheet should be addressed promptly, and the merchandiser must ensure the timely execution and dispatch of samples of the desired quality.
Costing: Merchandisers must consider the following details during the costing process:
- Yarn cost
- Process cost (e.g., knitting, bleaching, raising)
- Rates for various sewing operations
- Cut Make Trim (CMT) rate
- Ironing charges, packing charges, and accessory rates
- Overheads
- Shortage or wastage (3%)
- Free on Board (FOB) transport charges (2% to 3%)
- Insurance (2%-3%)
- Buyers' agent commission (5%-6%)
- Quota rate per garment
- Profit margin (15%-20%)
- Programming: Programming is typically done by the production manager, but in some companies, merchandisers handle this task. The following factors should be considered during programming:
- Fabric structure
- Diameter fixation (knitting, calendaring, compacting)
- Process loss (shrinkage, etc.)
- Size-wise piece weight
- Extra quantity required
- Size-wise requirements (diameter, color, combination)
- Route Card Drafting or Production Scheduling: Merchandisers are responsible for creating a route card or production schedule for each order. This document helps in monitoring the progress of orders systematically. The following details should be considered during drafting or scheduling:
- Design
- Number of sewing operations
- Number of processes
- Dispatch date
- Number of components
- Type of stitches
- Order quantity
- Production capacity of in-house or sub-contractor units and processing units
- Prioritization of factors
- Targeted dates for various stages of merchandising
- Actual finishing dates (to identify deviations between planning and actual performance)
- Decision dates for all merchandising stages
- Actual dates for each process or operation in the production schedule
- Merchandisers are responsible for addressing any deviations.
Accessories Arrangements: Merchandisers must ensure the timely delivery of required garment accessories to the relevant units. An accessories requisition slip can be used to track requirements. The merchandiser should cross-check the actual requirements upon receiving the accessories and conduct quality checks.
Approvals: Approval serves as authentication for processes or operations. Merchandisers should be aware of the quality parameters for various processes and sewing operations before granting approvals. Conformities are essential, and evidence of approval must be cross-checked.
Approval of Various Processes, Sewing Operations, and Finishing Processes: Technical merchandisers approve processes, sewing operations, and finishing processes such as pattern making, cutting, sewing, and ironing.
Pattern Approvals: Patterns should be approved for:
- Measurement
- Style and fit
- Allowances
- Accuracy
Any non-conformance in the pattern must be corrected before production. Pattern approval samples are received from the relevant units and approved by the approval department or merchandisers. Revised samples may be required for sizes with non-conformities.
- Size Set Approvals: Size set approvals are conducted by the approval department or merchandisers. All quality parameters related to processes and sewing operations must be cross-checked. Consider the following aspects:
- Measurements
- Aesthetics
- Process quality
- GSM (grams per square meter)
- Piece shrinkage
- Washing fastness
- Sewing operation quality
- Print or embroidery position
- Labeling instructions
- Size set approval sheets are prepared in triplicate.
- Garment washing fastness and shrinkage are verified.
Pre-production Samples: Pre-production samples must be submitted on time to the concerned parties, such as buyers or buyer agents. All quality parameters need to be verified. Non-conformities should be mentioned in the approval sheet, and revised samples may need to be submitted after necessary corrections.
Pilot Run Inspection: The pilot run refers to the initial production of garments, during which quality parameters are verified, and preventive measures can be taken. The follow-up team should conduct pilot run inspections to identify and rectify defects.
In-process Inspection: In-process inspections occur during various stages of production or sewing operations. Adequate procedures should be in place for frequency and thoroughness. Major non-conformities must be promptly communicated to the relevant parties. Consistent follow-up inspections are necessary to ensure adherence to quality procedures and implement preventive actions.
Production Controlling: Effective control measures should be implemented at all levels, including the operational level. Efforts must be made to control non-conformities during production, with consistent supervision and regular quality checks.
Shortage Problem: Merchandisers must identify material shortages, such as yarn, fabric, and accessories, at the initial stages. Steps should be taken to arrange the required materials promptly. Quality control and quality assurance procedures should be followed even in the presence of shortages, with no compromise on material quality.
Following Quality Control Procedures: Written quality procedures are often available in the quality manual of companies. Merchandisers must be familiar with all quality control procedures. Strict adherence to quality procedures is essential in all processes and operations. The importance of procedures should be emphasized to subordinates, in-house units, and sub-contractors.
Following Quality Assurance Procedures: Strict adherence to all required test procedures, as specified by the buyer, is crucial. Proper maintenance of evidence, such as test reports, tested samples, swatches, and accessories, is necessary. Before cutting, the merchandiser must ensure that the concerned unit has obtained all the necessary approvals from authorized personnel.
Monitoring Junior Activities: Merchandisers should closely monitor their subordinates, provide instructions before factory visits, and discuss daily activities. Controlling the activities of subordinates helps ensure a high-performing team.
Monitoring In-house or Sub-contractor Units: Merchandisers must monitor the activities of in-house or sub-contractor units to ensure compliance with quality control and assurance procedures. Emphasizing the importance of quality procedures is essential to achieve planned performance levels.
Buyer Communication: Merchandisers must respond promptly to faxes from buyers, providing necessary information and updating them on production status. Duties related to buyer communication include sample execution, amendments, commenting on samples, sample order sheets, buyer visits, and sending samples, swatches, and accessories for approvals.
Communication with Others: Merchandisers need to interact effectively with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors, and job workers involved in various processing tasks. Proper communication ensures timely supply of materials to the relevant parties. Production status updates from different units aid in effective follow-up and communication.
Proper Reporting: Merchandisers must provide timely and accurate reports to the appropriate individuals. Reports should cover various activities, such as sample execution, approvals, testing procedures, production status, programming, shortage details, inspection details, and meeting-related production status. Reports from inspection agencies and testing labs should also be included.
Highlighting: Merchandisers must promptly highlight major problems in merchandising to enable superiors to take necessary actions. Timely highlighting ensures proper decision-making.
Record Maintenance: Merchandisers are responsible for maintaining quality records related to buyer orders. Proper filing, utilizing the services of subordinates, is essential. Examples of records include sample details, sample inspection reports, testing reports, approval evidence, pattern approval sheets, size set approval sheets, pilot run inspection reports, fabric inspection reports, mid-inspection reports, inspection reports from buying offices, buying agents, and inspection agencies, as well as production and final inspection reports.
Developing Samples: Some buyers may provide specifications, diagrams, or patterns from which samples need to be developed. Samples may consist of fabric with the required knit structure or garments with specific specifications. The merchandiser must consider all quality parameters when developing samples. If non-conformities are found, revised samples may need to be submitted for approval. Consistent follow-up is required to dispatch developed samples to the buyers.
Placement of Orders: Priority is given to approved sub-contractors for placing orders, but new manufacturers can also be considered after evaluation when production capacity is insufficient. In-house units may also receive orders. In some companies, merchandisers are responsible for identifying suitable manufacturers after proper evaluation. Initially, small quantity orders are placed, and larger quantity orders are confirmed after verifying performance. Yarn may be procured by the unit or supplied by the supplier. For CMT orders, processed fabric is delivered to the unit by the supplier once the average piece weight for a specific size is confirmed.
Taking Measures for Consistent Production: Merchandisers must monitor merchandising activities in accordance with the production schedule, ensuring the execution of each process or operation within the targeted time. They must take necessary steps to maintain consistent production by addressing merchandising problems, such as yarn quality, fabric arrangements, accessory supply, and following up on shortage quantities.
Preventive Actions: Detecting defects is not the sole responsibility of merchandisers. They must also take preventive actions to eliminate deviations at every stage of merchandising.
Attending Meetings with Superiors: Merchandisers should attend meetings for general discussions on order execution or for implementing new systems like ISO. During production status meetings, they collect production details for various buyers' orders from different units and provide updates to superiors. Merchandisers are accountable for answering questions regarding order execution raised by superiors.
In conclusion, successful knit garments merchandising requires meticulous execution of various tasks, from sample order execution to buyer communication, record maintenance, and ensuring consistent production. Merchandisers play a vital role in coordinating and managing these processes, leading to successful and timely delivery of knit garments to buyers.
Related topics Merchendising,Knit,Garments,Textile,Yarn,Fabric,Industry,RMG,Bangladesh,BUTEX.DUET,KUET,Textile College,Dyeing,Washing,T-Shirt etc
Comments
Post a Comment